Installing a Digitrax DNZ123
in a Life Like GP60
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December 2004 |
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2 - 1/8" - Red, Black, & White wires 1 - 3/4" - Gray wire 1 - 1/8" - Orange & Yellow wires In this example I did not use the Blue wire. |
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The drawing above shows the modifications that need to be made on the rear PC board. Use a needle file to create a rounded notch between the tabs that plug into the frame. This will be for the wires. On this board cut the circuit trace between the LED and the tab that will be on the left side of the engine. Connect the yellow wire to the LED there. The photo shows the board with the yellow wire connected. Re-install the board component side up. |
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The drawing above shows the modifications that need to be made on the front PC board. Cut the circuit trace between the resistor and the tab that plugs into the frame. Remove the LED and re-install it on the opposite side of the board from the resistor. Connect the red, black, and white wires as shown in the photo. This board will be installed component side up. |
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Remove the motor brushes from the motor and solder the orange and gray wires to the motor brush caps. On this model the motor is tight against the frame where on other models we have been able to squeeze the lower motor wire into. To get the gray wire down to the lower part of the motor use a needle file again to notch a groove into the side of the motor housing as shown in the photo. I did this on the right side of the motor but it could be done on either side. Be careful not to get any debris inside the motor. |
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After you have re-assembled the engine this is what you will have. The DZ123 is actually a few mils wider than the shell inside width so the fit might seem a little tight. If you are using an TCS M1 decoder the fit will be easy. The fact that the frame has an undercut that the decoder fits into makes it secure and you will not need any tape to hold it in place. This model has nice locking bumps on the frame like some of the Kato models to align the shell. |